A friend, Megumi and I went out for dinner the other night. I could tell that she had something important to say when she leaned across the table and dropped her voice to a whisper. “I think,” she paused, checking for eavesdroppers, “I think, my hairdresser might be gay.”
I spat out my green tea in what I thought to be obvious mock disbelief. “Are you serious? You mean your flamboyant hairdresser? How do you know?” I raised my voice at the end and threw my hands in the air for added comic affect — a gesture I use in Japan to punctuate my sarcastic remarks, should there be any room for doubt.
Megumi giggled before replying. Good, I thought, not without excitement. Maybe she’s beginning to understand dry humor.
“Well, he always wears nice clothes and his voice sounds like a woman’s and he always talks about nice clothes.” I nodded my head in agreement but admitted that I was still skeptical. Void of humor, she sounded like a witness testifying at the Nuremberg Trials. Sarcasm I’ve learned, like pubic hair grooming, is largely a foreign concept in Japan.
Two weeks ago I spent some time in South Korea. Despite the countries close proximity, the Korean and Japanese people seem worlds apart. Koreans are laid-back, their youth do not dress like senior citizens or in blackface, and when Koreans smile, it doesn’t look like someone set a grenade off in their mouth. However there is one common thread that ties the two cultures together: their inability to comprehend or detect sarcasm.
While in Korea, I spent a day in a Daegu mountain village with my friend Mike and his ex-pat comrades, Llana, Stephanie, Julie and Julie’s Korean friend, Chen. Chen was a middle-aged loner hell-bent on showing foreigners a good time. He met Julie earlier that day at a subway station when he spotted her eyeing a poster for a festival and offered to take her there as a guide.
We spent the afternoon hiking and afterwards we decided to dine at a local eatery. The owner brought out several appetizer dishes such as kimchi, pickled vegetables and sliced radish dyed purple. I had never seen purple radish before and I joked to Llana that I couldn’t eat anything that was purple, such as prunes, grape-flavored candy or eggplant. Llana laughed politely but Chen took action.
Moments later, a beaming Chen returned with the owner who, in a flurry of apologies, set out fresh plates of white radishes. Chen confessed that he overheard the comment about my no purple diet and didn’t want me to feel left out of eating delicious Korean radishes. Not wanting to make him look the fool, I thanked him for his consideration and sharp ears.
Later in the day, Chen turned to me and inquired why it was that I couldn’t indulge in purple provisions. “Good question Chen,” I said, stalling for an answer. “I guess it goes back to my childhood when I had a birthday party at McDonalds. As we were enjoying our McNuggets and milk shakes, a man showed up in a purple Grimace costume and tried to burn down the building.” Chen stared at me blankly. “Also,” I added, “he popped my purple balloon.”






A similar thing happened to me during my fifth birthday at McDonald’s. All my friends were there. Everything was going swell until Birdie the Early Bird showed up out of nowhere and started beating the shit out of Mayor McCheese. The Fry Kids looked on in horror as she bashed his skull in with frozen burger patties and poured molten fryer fat over his legs. Like heartrending notes from a shrill aria, snippets of her speech sang out amidst the stale, grease-laden air: “But you dey baby daddy,” “Who dat skanky ho be,” “I’m-a kill dat bitch!” It was clear things were beginning to turn ugly. So, cheeseburger gripped firmly in fist, I made a dash for the bathroom. As I leaned up against the brown and orange mosaic-tiled wall underneath the hand dryer to catch my breath, I heard a strange utterance coming from one of the stalls: “Robble-robble…robble…rob…ble…” I cautiously advanced towards the sound, slowly pushed open the creaking stall door, and discovered before me the Hamburglar, sitting on the toilet, pants around ankles, shooting meth into his left thigh.
Things weren’t quite the same after that.
Eventually Birdie left the Mayor for Officer Big Mac, but that didn’t last long after paternity tests for their offspring, The McNugget Buddies, turned up false. Birdie was forced to go on welfare and the Fry Kids and McNugget Buddies were split up into various foster homes. Last I heard, she and Hamburglar had gone on a PCP-induced rampage and were making a run for the border.
I laughed a lot at this entry.
Yeah… the people are different but Seoul looks exactly like Tokyo. And the Korean countryside looks like a shithole.